My journey to Zhangzhou began with the goal of seeing the Fujian Tulou in Nanjing County. Previously, I’d only visited square Tulou (earth buildings), but I was eager to experience the round ones as well. Not even temperatures approaching 40°C could deter my plan.
A Quick Dive into Fujian Tulou History
Understanding the historical context enriched my visit. In ancient times, Nanjing county was remote and faced bandits and wild beasts, and local people built Tulou for safety. Notably, Huaiyuan Lou in the Yunshuiyao Scenic Area served as the prototype for the Tulou featured in the animated film “Big Fish & Begonia.”
Route Overview: Itineraries and Shortcuts in Zhangzhou, Fujian
On the first day, I arrived in Zhangzhou, Fujian at night. After checking in near the old town area, I found it easy to stroll around by bus or on a small electric scooter.
I found September evenings ideal for wandering, as the gentle breeze invites relaxed strolls. Rather than create a strict plan, I simply picked a spot – the Zhangzhou Old Town and let the lively streets—with their glowing lights and crowds—guide me. Scenes like a girl in ornate hairpins posing for photos and the Lantern Riddle Museum open late added to the experience, reminding me that lantern riddles are among the four quintessences of Chinese traditional culture (alongside Peking Opera, calligraphy/painting, and traditional Chinese medicine).
When taking the bus, be sure to flag it down early; otherwise, the driver might not stop. If you miss the last bus, small electric scooters are readily available and cost about 1 yuan per 10 minutes here—a price much lower than in Shenzhen. This accessibility, along with a relaxing dessert stop for “Si Guo Tang” at shops open late into the night, allowed me to unwind and momentarily forget I was traveling.
The next morning, I traveled from Zhangzhou Station to Nanjing Station to spend the day exploring the Yunshuiyao Scenic Area (entry ticket: 90 yuan).
There’s still some distance between Nanjing Station and the Yunshuiyao Scenic Area. It’s recommended to rent a car, take a bus, or book a one-day tour package on Ctrip, a travel booking App (which includes a ticket and round-trip). Please note that if you wish to climb to the upper floors to enjoy the views from each level, an additional 10 yuan fee applies.
I had read in a guide that there were direct buses, but I didn’t see any. I asked a bus driver and learned I’d need to go to the bus station first and transfer. How is it that such a popular place doesn’t have a direct bus service? If you’re going, a chartered van is a good choice; once off the station, people will flag you down and you’ll usually join a group. The van carried 5 people, including me, each paying 30 yuan, and the ride took about an hour. Returning by bus costs 11 yuan, but it takes over two hours (plus waiting time). I had to re-book the train ticket later because I failed to catch it.
Tips to Maximize Your Two-Day Fujian Tulou Buffer
I assumed the scorching Guangdong sun would be the same everywhere in September, but I underestimated how Fujian Tulou distances are farther apart and how little shade exists along most routes. Midday visits to the Yunshuiyao Scenic Area may feel overwhelming; if you expect a comfortable experience, consider planning for October or even later.
Luggage storage: Nanjing Station has no luggage storage. There are stalls nearby, but I didn’t trust leaving my belongings there. Some small vendors offer storage, but I didn’t want to take the risk. My recommendation: carry your luggage to the Yunshuiyao Scenic Area. Near the security checkpoint on the left, there’s a guard room that offers free luggage storage. After finishing your visit, take the free sightseeing shuttle back to retrieve your luggage.
Before your visit to Zhangzhou, Fujian, be sure to wear sunscreen and stay hydrated for a comfortable experience. Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any queries on your journey towards Zhangzhou or Fujian Tulou.